Part 1: Parts required
I highly recommend you get an SPA manifold. It will flow better and place your turbo in a better position. DO NOT use gaskets that have that perforated look; those gaskets will blow out. Part number for the manifold is TMB01.
Click here to purchase from BE RACING TUNING.
If you're interested in purchasing a maxpeedingrods manifold, click here to purchase.
SPA sells this piece that you can purchase or have it custom fabbed using 1.5" piping. The wastegate outlet on the SPA manifold is not your typical type so you have to buy the flange from them.
Pre-made pipe part number:
TMSPT02
Flange part number:
LGVLESC01
Click here to purchase from eBay.(As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase)
I have been using eBay/Chinese turbos since the beginning of my build with no issues. I ran a GT3582 0.63A/R from maxpeedingrods and it worked great. I have upgraded to a clone GTX3584R 1.06A/R but you don't need to go that big; 0.82A/R should be plenty.
If you're interested in purchasing a maxpeedingrods GT3582 4 bolt with a 0.63 A/R turbine housing to start off your build, you can click here or here.
If you're interested in purchasing a Pulsar GT3076R GEN2 from BE RACING TUNING, click here.
If you're interested in purchasing a Pulsar GT3582R GEN2 from BE RACING TUNING, click here.
Drain line - Textile Reinforced High Temperature Hose from Pegasus Racing. They offer it in blue or black. Use 5/8": 3290‑10 for blue 5/8", 3491‑10 for black 5/8". Also known as Aeroquip FC598-10
VANOS banjo adapter - Click here to purchase from BE RACING TUNING.
Click here to purchase from eBay.(As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase)
Feed line - Click here to purchase from BE RACING TUNING.
Turbo feed fitting - Turbos have the feed inlet threaded. It is either going to be 1/8" NPT or 7/16-24". Although the internet says you're only supposed to use a restrictor on ball bearing turbos, I've used it on both and have had great success. Excess oil pressure and a bad drain are what kills turbos fast. I've used a 1.5mm restrictor on all of my turbos and recommend others do as well. Use the appropriate thread to 4AN adapter. You will also need a 90 degree 4AN fitting to clear the manifold. You can try to use a banjo feed fitting to give yourself more clearance but just know that you will have a really tough time removing/installing it with the turbo installed.
Click here to purchase the 7/16-24" fitting with 1.5mm restrictor from eBay.(As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase)
Drain flange - You do not want to use 10AN; I know it's very popular on forums but 10AN is only 1/2" in diameter which is way too small. If you're set on using AN lines, go 12AN. However, the 5/8" hose from Pegasus Racing works great. Get a flange with a 1/2" NPT outlet as pictured below. I recommend going with an o-ringed fitting so you don't have to mess with putting RTV on the flange.
Click here to purchase the flange pictured below from eBay.(As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase)
Fitting that will thread into the drain flange - 45° Zinc Steel Fitting 5/8" Barb & 1/2" NPT Intake Manifold Fitting Heater Rod
Click here to purchase the fitting pictured below from eBay.(As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase)
Fitting that will thread into the pan - Vibrant 11223 (5/8" Barb to 1/2" NPT)
Click here to purchase the fitting pictured below from eBay.(As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase)
1/2" NPT weld on bung for the pan (Aluminum)
Click here to purchase the fitting pictured below from eBay.(As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase)
Get the one from rallyroad that matches your chassis (E36 chassis E36 arm, E46 chassis, E46 arm). In the case of E46, rallyroad only lists one for an M3 but it works fine on non-Ms.
Click here to purchase the E36/E46 arm from BE RACING TUNING.
Click here to purchase the E39 arm from BE RACING TUNING.
Click here to purchase the E36 arm from ebay.(As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase)
Click here to purchase the E46 arm from eBay.(As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase)
I highly recommend going with a name brand/high quality core intercooler like Vibrant, Garrett, or Treadstone. Vibrant 12810 is an affordable but high quality option.
Click here to purchase the Vibrant intercooler from eBay.(As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase)
Click here to purchase a Treadstone intercooler from BE RACING TUNING.
As for intercooler piping (3 inch and 2.5 inch), just get those kits you find on eBay for around $100. The prices for individual pieces of piping is crazy so it's cheaper to get the kits.
Click here to purchase 2.5" intercooler piping with clamps and couplers from maxpeedingrods.
Click here to purchase 3.0" intercooler piping with clamps and couplers from maxpeedingrods.
If you're going to be running your charge pipe under the subframe, you should get this oval pipe. You can get it from Ross Machine Racing and it's called "Universal Oval Runner Extrusion" part number RMR-071.
Click here to purchase from eBay.(As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase) You will need to contact the seller to fix/adjust their shipping cost as you're only buying 1 foot.
These will come with the piping kits but you don't want to use them. They're made very poorly and I believe are only 2 ply. Additionally, you want to use as little couplers as possible in your system to decrease the chances of boost leaks. Although I use couplers off of eBay/Amazon, look for 3, 4, or 5 ply.
You will need a 3" 90 degree coupler with long legs (4.7") to use on the throttle body.
You will need a 3" 90 degree coupler with normal length legs for the cold side charge pipe.
The cheap t-bolt clamps that come with the piping kits suck and break while tightening. Upgrade to quality Norma branded clamps.
The ICV has a 1" inlet and 1" silicone heater hose fits over it perfectly. Dayco Insulone Heater Hoses 80319 - Click here to purchase from eBay.(As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase)
25mm (1") OD, Leg Length 4" (100mm), 90 Degree Bend Elbow Aluminum - Welded to the charge pipe to be used for ICV.
3/8" Hose Barb Nipple Weld On Aluminum Bung - Click here to purchase from eBay.(As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase) Welded to the charge pipe to be used for F-connector. It has two lines going to the connector; the top one is for the sucking jet pump for your brake booster and the bottom one is the reference for the fuel pressure regulator.
1/4" NPT tap and plugs - Click here to purchase the plugs from eBay.(As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase) Used to block off the stock CCV distribution ports on M54 intake manifolds.
1/8", 1/4", and 3/8" silicone vacuum hose - Get about 20 feet of each. It doesn't hurt to have a bit extra.
1/8" NPT to 1/8" barb for the DISA.
1" NPT tap for the ICV.
Wastegate - DO NOT CHEAP OUT ON YOUR WASTEGATE! This is the one thing that controls boost; you do not want this to fail, and it will blow your engine. I used a TiAL F38. Either go with TiAL, Precision, or Turbosmart.
Boost controller - I went with a NXS Manual Boost Controller. It functions great at a realistic pricepoint. The ones sold by Turbosmart and other manufacturers for $80+ function the same way. I didn't go with an electronic boost controller because I couldn't justify the need for one, but that is personal preference.
Click here to purchase from eBay(As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase).
Wideband/AFR Gauge - AEM UEGO 30-4110
Click here to purchase from eBay.(As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase)
Click here to purchase from BE RACING TUNING.
Boost/Vacuum Gauge - I prefer an analog one over a digital one, but it's personal preference. I went with Turbosmart TS-0101-2023.
Click here to purchase from eBay.(As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase)
As for wiring, get a BMW E46 Angel eye relay harness or you could make your own if you know how to wire up relays. I used a power distribution block to keep things clean as I had wiring for a flex fuel sensor, angel eyes, and a dash cam.
Sucking jet pump - 11617545382. The original piece has lived its life and will leak boost and vacuum. My engine ran much smoother after replacing this. It also wouldn't hurt to change the brake booster hose 34336751108.
Intake manifold gasket - 11611436631
Throttle body gasket - The part number for the throttle body gasket will differ per model but you can find it here
Caps on the back of the intake manifold - 2x 11611437560 and 2x 11611727176
It also wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the intake air temperature sensor o-ring 13621743299.
Exhaust manifold gaskets - Use E36 M52 ones to get rid of the heat shields that the stock M54 ones have, and they are much cheaper. Part number 11621744252.
New stock fuel filter with integrated regulator (M54 only) (Yes even with E85)
SPAL fan relay harness - This will be used to wire your upgraded fuel pump. Part number FRH.
Click here to purchase from eBay.(As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase)
Fuel pump - DW300 E46-specific part number 9-301-1031
Click here to purchase a DW200 from BE RACING TUNING.
Click here to purchase a DW300 from BE RACING TUNING.
Click here to purchase from eBay.(As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase)
Injectors -
Bosch 0280158123 for pump gas - Click here to purchase from BE RACING TUNING.
Bosch 0280158040 for E85 - Click here to purchase from BE RACING TUNING. You will also need top hats which can be purchased from eBay here(As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase).
If for some reason you want to purchase alternate injectors, here are the details required for fitment:
o-ring diameter: 14mm
o-ring to o-ring: 52mm
In tank fuel hose -
https://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/html/kits.html
OR
https://www.racetronix.biz/p/fuel-tube-125-x-8-10mm-black/fft-125x8-10b
Wire bulkhead fitting - You will use this to run thicker wiring for your upgraded fuel pump. Part number ATL Racing Fuel Cells CFD-504
Click here to purchase from eBay.(As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase)
Exhaust studs - N54 exhaust studs are a popular upgrade as they have an e-torx head, making installation much easier. I used these, however the studs are a little too short and don't leave many threads for proper engagement of the nuts. N47 studs are longer and have the correct thread pitch. However, the US did not get that engine so the part will have to be special ordered from Europe. Use M54 exhaust manifold nuts. I didn't use the N47 studs because they ended up being too long thus making installation of the manifold very difficult. Now with the great B58, we can use their studs. It's the same length as the N47 studs, but offers the great adavtange of being readily available and no stopper so you can thread it further into the head allowing easy installation of the exhaust manifold paired with more thread engagement for the nut.
N54 studs: 24 x 11127593376 or
B58 studs: 24 x 11127647711 or
N47 studs: 24 x 11128597830
M54 exhaust manifold nuts: 24 x 11721437202
Manifold to turbo studs and nuts - Heat cycling will loosen your nuts and studs regardless of how much you tighten them. Use a combination of
Resbond and locking nuts to not have issues. I used some locknuts off of Amazon that bite hard into the stud so they don't loosen. The nuts are called clad nuts. The thread pitch on the manifold is M10 x 1.5.
Click here to purchase from eBay.(As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase)
Get studs for a turbo Mazda: part number L3K9-13-146A
Wastegate port bolts - The thread pitch on the manifold is M8x1.25. I used regular steel bolts from home depot and haven't had a problem, however this is where you want to use resbond so they don't back out. I had them back out on me once from heat cyling and my entire relocation pipe and wastegate fell out into the middle of the street.
M6x1.0 16-18mm bolt with hex head. You'll use this to replace the T40 bolts that hold the DISA. You can just order 2x 07119915123 to make life easy.
Exhaust outlet flange for turbo (turbo specific) - Most smaller turbos have a 5 bolt outlet whereas bigger ones have a 4 bolt outlet. I don't recommend using a tiny turbo as it's too restrictive. From my recent experience of trying to make an adapter to make a 4 bolt outlet work with an SPA manifold, it's not even worth it. Go with a v-band outlet; it makes life so much easier. No need for any nonsense adapters or gaskets; just the v-band and clamp.
Exhaust piping - Every downpipe will differ slightly, however, most will follow a similar pattern of using two 90 degree pieces (mandrel bent). You want a minimum 3" downpipe. The bigger the better. Modern turbo cars have tiny turbos but have huge downpipes.
2x Walker 41231 - Used for the wastegate relocation pipe
Wastegate flange - Used for the wastegate relocation pipe
V-Bands - I ordered about 4 sets of these for making my exhaust system. Get ones that have a "male" and "female" end; those will always line up so you won't have an exhaust leak.
O2 sensor bung - No need to buy expensive ones, but get a 2 pack.
Flex bellow - This will be used in the middle of your downpipe to allow for some flex. Do not get the typical interweaved type; those do not last long. Vibrant performance and Verocious motorsports both sell this type of flex bellow.
*This is yet to be finalized*
If you want to do your intake like I have, you will need:
1x 45 degree 4" coupler
1x 90 degree 4" coupler
1x 90 degree 4" aluminum pipe with long straight legs (600mm)
1x straight 4" coupler
1x large air filter of your choice
SAP delete plate - Part number 11121438086
MAF sensor (depends on your tuner's choice) and flange (if you're going to be welding up your own charge piping) - PMAS HPX. You can use a Ford MAF flange.
Click here to purchase a PMAS HPX with a pre-welded MAF flange from BE RACING TUNING.
German Auto Solutions DISA Repair and Upgrade Kit
Threadlocker - Loctite does not last in high temperature environments! Shell out the cash and get Resbond 907ts; it's quite expensive but does the job well.
Spark plugs - NGK 4644 BKR7E gapped to 0.022"
Coil packs - If you have the original 20+ year old coils, you are losing a lot of power. Check out
B58 coil pack retrofit
Everbilt 348340 - Used for mounting the intercooler
Gasoila - GE04 E-Seal Pipe Thread Sealant - Used for sealing NPT fittings
If interested in purchasing some pre-fabricated parts, BE RACING TUNING now offers that available for purchase here.