Part 1: Parts Required (Old setup)
Turbo manifold - I highly recommend you get an SPA manifold. It will flow better and place your turbo in a better position. I went with your typical eBay/Amazon cast bottom mount manifold. DO NOT use the gaskets that come with this manifold or any that have that perforated look. Those gaskets will blow out.
Turbo - I went with a eBay turbo. I have had it on the car since 06/2019 and it has been working fine. I recently upgraded to another eBay turbo, branded Rev9.
Oil feed line - Get this from rallyroad.net https://rallyroad.net/collections/forced-induction/products/turbooilfeedline
Oil drain line - This will be discussed later.
Motor mount arm - I tried saving some money and using a E36 turbo mount but don't do it; you have to twist your engine so much just to get it to seat. Get the "E46 M3" one from rallyroad.
Oil feed and drain flange (depends on turbo) - Some turbos have the feed area threaded. If it is, do not use a flange; this will eliminate needing a gasket which reduces the chances of having a leak. I used a 5/8" NPT 45 degree flange.
Intercooler - I am using a EMUSA branded eBay intercooler. It fits perfectly with zero cutting but I would recommend getting something like a Vibrant. The dimensions for mine are 27 x 9 x 3.
Intercooler piping (3 inch and 2.5 inch) - Just get those kits you find on eBay for around a $100. It helps to have extra because the piping isn't plug-n-play and will require welding.
Silicone couplers and T-bolt clamps - These will come with the piping kits but you will also need a 3" 90 degree hump coupler to use on the throttle body. Try to use hump couplers wherever you can; flexibility helps prevent parts from breaking. The ICV has a 1" inlet. I used this
Wastegate - DO NOT CHEAP OUT ON THIS! This is the one thing that controls boost; you do not want this to fail and it will blow your engine. I used a TiAL F38. Either go with TiAL or Turbosmart.
Wideband/AFR Gauge - I went with an AEM one. It works fine.
Boost/Vacuum Gauge - I went with a Turbosmart gauge because it was cheap and a legitimate brand. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbosmart-Boost-Gauge-0-30psi-52mm-2-1-16-Black-Face-
Silver-Bezel-TS-0101 2023/303039125756ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Exhaust manifold gaskets - Use E36 M52 ones to get rid of the heat shields that the stock M54 ones have.
N54 exhaust studs - Use these because they have a little e-torx on the edge of the head making installation easy.
M54 exhaust nuts
Wastegate and turbo flange gaskets - I just got some Multi-Layer-Steel (MLS) gaskets off eBay. They look like this
Oil feed and drain gaskets (Only necessary if using flanges) - Don't use the gaskets that come with the flanges if you order it off of eBay. They are a cheap material and will leak. Get it from atpturbo.com.
MAF sensor flange - This will be MAF-specific, however for a PMAS HPX you can use a Ford flange.
O2 sensor bung - I just got universal steel ones off of Amazon. No need to get super expensive ones.
Exhaust flange for turbo (May be 5 bolt or 4 bolt depending on turbo) - My turbo has a 5 bolt exhaust housing so I used this
Various NPT bungs - I used mainly 3/8" NPT, 1/2" NPT, and 5/8" NPT.
1/4" NPT tap and bungs - Used to block off the stock CCV on M54 intake manifolds.
SAP delete plate
1/8" and 1/4" silicone vacuum hose - Get about 20 feet of each. It doesn't hurt to have a bit more.
Exhaust piping - I had my downpipe made outside of the car using two pieces of 3" 90 degree mandrel bent stainless steel pipe making it into an "S" shape.
3/8" NPT Weld On Bung and 3/8" NPT Male to 3/8" Hose Barb 45 Degree - This will be used to connect the stock "f-connector" to your piping. It has two lines going to the connector; the top one is for the sucking jet pump for your brake booster and the bottom one is the reference for the fuel pressure regulator
Oil feed line - Get this from rallyroad.net https://rallyroad.net/collections/forced-induction/products/turbooilfeedline
Oil drain line - This will be discussed later.
Motor mount arm - I tried saving some money and using a E36 turbo mount but don't do it; you have to twist your engine so much just to get it to seat. Get the "E46 M3" one from rallyroad.
Oil feed and drain flange (depends on turbo) - Some turbos have the feed area threaded. If it is, do not use a flange; this will eliminate needing a gasket which reduces the chances of having a leak. I used a 5/8" NPT 45 degree flange.
Intercooler - I am using a EMUSA branded eBay intercooler. It fits perfectly with zero cutting but I would recommend getting something like a Vibrant. The dimensions for mine are 27 x 9 x 3.
Intercooler piping (3 inch and 2.5 inch) - Just get those kits you find on eBay for around a $100. It helps to have extra because the piping isn't plug-n-play and will require welding.
Silicone couplers and T-bolt clamps - These will come with the piping kits but you will also need a 3" 90 degree hump coupler to use on the throttle body. Try to use hump couplers wherever you can; flexibility helps prevent parts from breaking. The ICV has a 1" inlet. I used this
Wastegate - DO NOT CHEAP OUT ON THIS! This is the one thing that controls boost; you do not want this to fail and it will blow your engine. I used a TiAL F38. Either go with TiAL or Turbosmart.
Wideband/AFR Gauge - I went with an AEM one. It works fine.
Boost/Vacuum Gauge - I went with a Turbosmart gauge because it was cheap and a legitimate brand. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbosmart-Boost-Gauge-0-30psi-52mm-2-1-16-Black-Face-
Silver-Bezel-TS-0101 2023/303039125756ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Exhaust manifold gaskets - Use E36 M52 ones to get rid of the heat shields that the stock M54 ones have.
N54 exhaust studs - Use these because they have a little e-torx on the edge of the head making installation easy.
M54 exhaust nuts
Wastegate and turbo flange gaskets - I just got some Multi-Layer-Steel (MLS) gaskets off eBay. They look like this
Oil feed and drain gaskets (Only necessary if using flanges) - Don't use the gaskets that come with the flanges if you order it off of eBay. They are a cheap material and will leak. Get it from atpturbo.com.
MAF sensor flange - This will be MAF-specific, however for a PMAS HPX you can use a Ford flange.
O2 sensor bung - I just got universal steel ones off of Amazon. No need to get super expensive ones.
Exhaust flange for turbo (May be 5 bolt or 4 bolt depending on turbo) - My turbo has a 5 bolt exhaust housing so I used this
Various NPT bungs - I used mainly 3/8" NPT, 1/2" NPT, and 5/8" NPT.
1/4" NPT tap and bungs - Used to block off the stock CCV on M54 intake manifolds.
SAP delete plate
1/8" and 1/4" silicone vacuum hose - Get about 20 feet of each. It doesn't hurt to have a bit more.
Exhaust piping - I had my downpipe made outside of the car using two pieces of 3" 90 degree mandrel bent stainless steel pipe making it into an "S" shape.
2.5" to 3" Steel reducer - You will use this for making the 5 bolt flange into a V-band configuration which will be discussed later.
1" Hose barb 90 degree elbow 3/4" NPT - This will be used to connect the ICV to your charge piping.
Wiring - Get a BMW E46 Angel eye relay harness
M56 Valve cover and dipstick - The valve cover isn't entirely necessary but the dipstick is as it eliminates the drain portion used for the CCV on the M54.
Threadlocker - Loctite does not last in high temperature environments! Shell out the cash and get Resbond 907ts; it's quite expensive but does the job well.
Manifold to turbo studs and nuts - Heat cycling will loosen your nuts and studs regardless of how much you tighten them. Use a combination of Resbond and locking nuts to not have issues. I used some "locknuts" off of Amazon that bite hard into the stud so they don't loosen. The nuts are called clad nuts. The thread pitch on this eBay/Amazon manifold is M10 x 1.5. Get studs for a turbo Mazda. The old part number is L3K9-13-146A.
V-Bands - I ordered about 4 sets of these for making my exhaust system. Get ones that have a "male" and "female" end; those will always line up so you won't have an exhaust leak.
Wire bulkhead fitting - You will use this to run thicker wiring for your upgraded fuel pump.
SPAL fan relay harness - This will be used to wire your upgraded fuel pump.
Flex bellow - This will be used in the middle of your downpipe to allow for some flex. Do not get the typical interweaved type; those do not last long.
